crazy white girl with a kitchen

I sometimes feel bad that updating this blog has fallen by the wayside. So here are some photos I took in November(ish).

We left Okinawa at 3am or some other ungodly hour. Everyone in Japan travels at three times of the year – Silver Week in September, Golden Week in May, and July/August. So my choices for cheap flights were really cut down and our options were leave at 3am or pay $300 one way for a flight to Tokyo.

Arriving at 7am, we hit the ground running and were on a train and headed into downtown Tokyo in no time from Haneda. This is the beauty of Japan.  We grabbed a snack, stored our stuff in a handy locker (they make them big enough for a standard rolling suitcase and a backcountry backpack) and went to pick up the bikes we had reserved with Neil at Tokyo Rent A Bike.  Despite being exhausted, I was elated to have our bikes and be on pedal power the rest of the day. It was exhilarating, and I will absolutely do this again and recommend it to anyone who is traveling to Tokyo.

With a general route mapped out, our first stop was the Tsukiji Fish Market. After visiting Sushi Dai three years ago, Mike had another place (Sushi Bun) in mind, but it was unfortunately closed. No worries – have bike, smartphone and back up plans – and will travel. We biked a short distance to a street in the outer ring of the market and tried to find a restaurant called Uogashi Senryo just after lunch rush.

It is not known for sushi (although they do serve it), but for chirashisushi bowls. It is behind a dried fish shop and kind of blends in with the other shops. The quality is not the best you can get in the area, but it is popular for a reason. I think my two kinds of tuna bowl was excellent, and Mike’s uni ikura bowl was salty, creamy and hit the spot. Just what we needed after an early morning of travel and bike riding, and just what we needed to power us up the rest of the day.

Uogashi Senryo from the street. They do have an English menu.

Recharged we rode around east Tokyo, circling back to the bike rental office while hitting a few big sights and neighbourhoods along the way. Again – I cannot emphasize this enough; renting a bike was insanely easy, relatively cheap and very safe. They come with wheel locks so you can park and lock wherever you are, there are bells to ring and let people know you are coming at them on the fancy shopping Ginza shopping street and 6 gears to make climbing hills in Roppongi easier. Most people ride on the sidewalk, and this is accepted and perhaps even expected (pedestrians beware!) Many many people in Tokyo have bicycles, if only to get them to the nearest train station. It is insane to think that the world’s largest megacity is bike friendly to even the lowly tourist, but it is. If the Neil the bike guy had not been going on holiday I would have totally rented for a few more days. Next time, Tokyo. Next time.

I have been wanting to visit Another Hound for years. I remember strolling around Siam Paragon a few years ago with my brother and seeing the cafe and wanting to go in so badly – but I was intimidated for some reason. This time, I finally made it happen with my mom for a quick lunch on my last day in Bangkok.

Greyhound is a Thai fashion design house who happen to make clothes I really like. I actually thought that their cafe might be kind of crap they were so good at fashion, but I was wrong. The concept here is Italian bistro x Thai spice, and although that sounds like a recipe for disaster, it works here. Prices are good and the atmosphere is classy. A lot of black, crystal and silver, and a nice view of Siam from the windows.

The restaurant was full of lunching ladies and HiSo (the Bangkok term for high society) kids with too many shopping bags. Service was brisk, and they were sold out of a few things, but we still managed.

“Complicated noodle” Noodle sheets + fresh lettuce leaves + minced pork + chili garlic sauce + cilantro. No really easy way to eat these, but they are great, and judging by a quick look around the restaurants tables, very popular. I want to try recreating them at home sometime! 130 baht, or about $4.50

Watermelon mint shake.

My mom’s delicious ham and cheese grill, with a mound of fries. For something so basic sounding she was worried it was going to be a sad greasy tasteless mess, but it was crispy and fresh and they used high quality cheese and ham. About $5.50

Another Hound Cafe is a great stop if you are shopping in the Siam area and want to eat at something other than a food hall. The food is imaginative but well done, and the menu varied to all tastes.

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Another Hound, Siam Paragon

After a sad high tea in Hong Kong, I was eager to get back on the horse in Bangkok, this time having an enjoyable experience. My mom and I strolled down the street to the Sukhothai hotel one day to take in high tea.

The Sukhothai is one of most serene boutique hotels in Bangkok. The grounds and architecture are stunning, and although it is being dwarfed by some nearby skyscrapers, it still retains a feeling of exclusivity and privacy.

We decided on the classic Sukhothai tea set. I got a Mariage Frères Earl Grey French Blue tea and my mom got a coffee. We also ordered extra scones.

The tower came out quickly, but not TOO quickly as to suggest they were sitting in the back ready to go out.

Delicious sannies. There was a smoked salmon croissant, pate sausage baguette, an italian job with prosciutto and provolone and then a few little fingers with various more classic high tea fillings. Everything was fresh and not cold like some high tea rooms.

The pastries were fantastic, with nothing overly sweet, and a good mix of melting, crunchy, chocolatey and fruity. Berry tartlet, orange almond mini cake, fruit cake, truffles and matcha shortbread.

The fig scones! It was kind of a mistake to get an extra order – although they WERE excellent and so were the preserves and slightly untraditional mascarpone. Just too much.

My favourite was the eclair. I still miss the ones I would get from Duchess in Edmonton.

Vanilla creme brulee. Neither my mom or I wanted it at first – we were too full. But then I cracked it and inside was silken filling I could not stop eating.

And then, to finish, “Green Goddess” dragonfruit lime sorbet. Surprisingly light.

Afterwards we strolled around the complex a little bit more. They seem to be doing a lot of refurbishing. There was also a wedding being set up, for a Japanese couple!

High tea is in the main hotel lobby Monday through Thursday from 2-6pm. The Sukhothai also does a weekend chocolate buffet for those looking for more sweets and less tea and sandwiches. Both are around 800 baht.

I had originally planned just to do an entry on Soi Convent in Bangkok, but we have been stuck in the house for over 36 hours now because of a typhoon and I need something to do. So this is just a round up of some of the little bits of food we had.

Eating at the cafe of the extended stay apartment my parents have a place at.

Margaritas and more at La Monita.

Early morning Caesar and live UFC fight at Home Run Bar.

Lamb kebabs and phad thai at “The Fifth” Food Hall at MBK Center.

2 for 1 margaritas at Coyotes while we waiting for Isao, a Japanese restaurant to open

Bug & Bee is a great 24 hour cafe with a few locations scattered over Bangkok.

Going to visit my mom in Bangkok this May was a game changer for me. Not everyday has been a party this first year in Okinawa, and I was in a pretty low place when I went on a last minute, parent-funded trip to Bangkok over “Golden Week” here in Japan. Mike was very kind and held the fort down alone as rainy season started.

Bangkok is kind of my home base in the east, and comforting in its chaos. I had no particular plans – do some shopping, hang out with my mom, work out, take some photos, sit in the sun … and eat, of course.

My parents have chosen a place near to one of the most famous food streets in Bangkok as their home the past two years – Soi Convent. It is not a long stroll to go up and down as it is just one long city block, and takes about 10 minutes to walk. But you can get a little bit of everything on or around this street at all hours of the day – in actual restaurants or carts that appear.

You can get breakfast, lunch, dinner and snacks. From Starbucks coffee, Mexican, Japanese and Irish food to baked goods, fruits, noodles, spicy som tam salad … it was so inspiring I wanted to do a post just dedicated to the sights along it.

Carts sleeping during the day

Taxis and tuk tuks whir up and down 24 hours a day, security guards for the hospitals and schools laze in the shade. Street sweepers work up and down with their oddly useless but effective wood brooms. Clientele ranging from ancient grannies to young school kids and nuns, expats living in near by skyscrapers and neatly dressed Thai office workers mix with the late night party crowd.

It is god damned magical.

Durian cart

Mangosteens were also in season

Hand squeezed nam som, or orange juice.

I made a point to walk up and down it at all hours and reveled in the different vendors and people. Early morning, with the blenders somehow plugged in somewhere to make fruit shakes, fried banana stands, coffee and Thai iced tea vendors.

Afternoon brings noodle carts, and fruit selllers with their icey sweet pineapple, crunchy green mango with spicy salt sugar mix and deep orange papaya.

As the blazing sun falls out of the sky, seafood platter makers appear, as do ka-nom producers with their hot pans for making sweet coconut and banana desserts or roti.

People drink, talk and eat sitting on plastic stools as tourists and Bangkok residents walk through the kitchen of the “restaurant” they eat at. I am certain if you sat here for long enough, you might see everything. Just like this guy, who I saw every day and is a fixture on Convent, with his big beer belly and, well, beer in a wine glass. Breakfast of champions.

My personal favourite stand is the southern Thai fried chicken lady that I have been visiting for over a decade. It has expanded from one lady who used to marvel I knew how to say simple phrases in Thai, to a fully staffed family operation with an English sign. Here they are, just setting up at about 4 in the afternoon.

In motion while arriving…

…in operation…

…in digestion.

Incredible.

I implore you to visit Convent when you are in Bangkok.
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Nearest BTS station: Sala Daeng.

My favourite meal in Hong Kong was the one we had quite a distance out of the main city core. We originally traveled out to eat some authentic bamboo noodles at Ping Kee noodles – a place, yes, featured on Anthony Bourdain’s episode of No Reservations where he went to Hong Kong.

After a 30 minute train ride and ten minute walk, we reached Tai Po market. It was a large four floored concrete building with many vendors. There was not a lot of English, and I could not recall through my flu fogged haze what the stall looked like on the episode. Additionally, I did not have 3G connectivity for my cell in Hong Kong. Gahh!

Eventually we found a wifi signal and we sussed out which stall was Ping Kee…only to find out it was closed for some reason. I am still not sure if it was a regular holiday or closed for good. There seemed to be a lot of junk in the stall, which makes me worry that it is closed for good.

By this point we were ravenous. I started to feel the pressure of three hungry bellies plus mine and was not sure where to go next. Then I remembered I had also noted a BBQ restaurant nearby. The name? Yat Lok. Another Bourdain favourite, this restaurant was a short jaunt from Tai Po market, and happily still had a table available even though it was pretty damn close to lunch and it was far from empty in the restaurant.

Since he was an incredibly kind man, the owner/chef came out to help us with the menu (since it was all in Cantonese) and explain some things in English. We all ordered different kinds of meat, but mostly pork and goose. As we waited it got busier and busier, the ladies behind the counter hurling out cups of milk tea, and the sound of the cleaver on wood and meat at the front becoming more frantic.

Our meals came out quite quickly and were…delectable. Some of the best meat I have ever had, with apologies to my father, Guy Savoy and the Salt Lick in Texas. Mike and I both got mixed plates to sample the pork and goose, and I am happy we did. The crisp sweetness of the skin on the goose gave way to a shimmering layer of fat, and tender meaty protein. I shifted back and forth between the goose and the char siu, unable to determine which I liked best. My appetite was not up to full speed so I did not eat that much rice and I have to agree with Bourdain – there was no need for the rice. Just a plate of meat would have been the best. Additionally the owner sent out some soup on the house. What a great man.

Alas a woman cannot live on meat alone. Although I would, especially if it call came from Yat Lok.

Goose on the left,  char siu on the right.

Why did I wait so long to post about this? It is only making me crave it more. Good thing we had a really delicious yakiniku meal last night.

While I am not sure I would have gone out of my way initially to eat at Yat Lok (I had planned on eating BBQ at another restaurant closer to Hong Kong) I certainly would now. Recommended.

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Ping Kee bamboo noodles
2nd Floor Tai Po Cooked Food Market

Yat Lok BBQ
5, Po Wah House A, Tai Ming Lane
Exiting the MTR, follow the signs towards “Tai Po Market.” After a jaunt, you will see Tai Po market infront of you. You’ll get to an intersection with a large building, which is Tai Po Market. To get to Yat Lok, though, head down the street to the right to an open square market kind of area. Yat Lok is on the square there.

High tea was definitely on my list as an experience to have in Hong Kong. I enjoy that it is relaxing, provides a nice light snack and feels…historical.

Corniness aside, Hong Kong has a wide selection of places to enjoy high tea, with some hotels even offering two high teas at two different dining establishments on the property. With all this selection, I am really sad we ended up where we did.

Sigh. Oh well.

Hullett House is located near the largest shopping center in Hong Kong, making it a perfect post shopping break for us. Mike and I arranged to meet our parents at Hullett House later – a mistake. I thought it would be easy to find. I suppose it is, if you are coming from the right angle or have a map, but from the place we were coming from it appeared to be hidden inside another building. That is the case, in a matter of speaking, as it is located in 1881 Heritage, a high end historical shopping area. My parents were unable to find the building, but both my dad and I groaned when we drove past the location the next day in a cab and saw a huge sign (think 10 foot letters) advertising Hullett House on the opposite side of the complex.

The building Hullett House is in was the former Marine Police headquarters, and is one of the oldest buildings in Hong Kong. As such, it is colonial in style and is very different from the sleek glassy Vuitton and Gucci outlets just across the street. It is quite charming, actually, and as we finally found our way in and ascended the steps, I was looking forward to the atmosphere.

We arrived minutes before the last call for high tea, and the hostess seated us with a comment about it being last call. Yeah, thanks lady, we’ll hurry. Just the way I like to enjoy high tea.

The patio of the Parlour restaurant was quite empty, save for another couple, and there did not seem to be a lot of staff. Something that become painfully clear when we sat…and sat…and sat. Maybe they were not in such a hurry for last call after all?

Finally we got a server to come over and ordered the high tea set. A three tiered silver server came out with scones and sweet treats, and a plate with savoury sandwiches. The food was okay, with most of the highlights being on the dessert tier, including an airy lychee, fruit curd and whip cream heart cake, a crunchy praline finger and warm flaky scones.

My tea was fine, but Mike said he thought his tasted a bit off. I had to ask for cream, and was brought ice cold milk. At the end of the meal would could not find any servers to bring us the bill, so we went to the front podium where the hostess stood with her back to us, rifling through papers. I think I finally said excuse me and she turned and gave us a blank look/stare, then said “Good bye.” I actually had to ask for the bill.

So despite the key location, high quality pastries and a beautiful patio, the experience was, well, bitter. We should have gone to the Peninsula instead. I would have gladly braved the zoo there if I knew better.

A week in Bangkok was good for my soul, stomach and photo skills.

Okay, maybe not that last one so much.
 

Haha, yeah right. They do have an English menu. Also when we returned a few days later, there was no menu, just carts.

The terrible side of being sick in Hong Kong was not that I was exhausted most of the time, it was that I had no appetite. I had hours of research put in to places to visit for BBQ pork, noodles and dim sum. And back ups for if those places were closed or busy. It still pains me as I write this a month later.

After an underwhelming meal the night before, the four of us headed out for an early dim sum at Luk Yu. Most places start serving at 10 or 11am, but the legendary Luk Yu opens at 7 am. I chose Luk Yu for a few reasons, but the early hour for a meal was the main one.

I’ll take half a teacake, please!

Oh god. Perfect baked cha siu bao. The pastries at Luk Yu were out of this world. The filling was delicious too.

It was not until our return trip the day we left that I noticed how insane the egg tarts were. They were layer upon layer of pastry. Probably 25 or more, filled with the eggy custard. So flaky. So good.

Meh. The beef balls were the only item that did not do much for me. Too big, too gelatinous and too tasteless.

Luk Yu is so classic. It opened in 1933 and really retains a lot of the same ambiance. It is reminiscent of a French bistro in decor (no, seriously!) with wood and stained glass and brass everywhere. White table cloths and tile floor complete the feeling. The service was excellent considering how badly people bash on it online. We felt welcome and enjoyed it so much we returned the morning we left. As I mentioned however, even though both visits were on weekdays at about 9am, one was menu and one was cart.

Luk Yu can get busy; I think there are at least two floors above the main that fill up. Tables are full of men sipping tea and reading the papers. The prices were great considering the work that went into the pastries. One of the best meals I have had ever had in Asia, for sure, for company and for food.

Our trip did not start off well. I had been looking forward to seeing Hong Kong and my parents for months…and I came down with a pretty desperate case of the flu Friday night. I dedicated all my energy to getting better, and even as I scraped myself out of my bed to pack a few hours before our flight left on Sunday, poor Mike was fighting off the bug.

This pile of blankets is Mike.

At the airport, I encountered something I have never had to contend with before in my time in Japan…only one vending machine to choose from. I settled for this aloe cube and white grape drink. It wasn’t bad, but it wasn’t exactly good or what I was looking for either. Sigh.

We got food on the flight – I think. This grey stuff is supposed to be Japanese chicken. Hong Kong Express was otherwise a pretty great airline. Food on a flight under three hours is pretty amazing. Even if it is inedible.

After rendezvousing with my parents at the airport (their flight from Bangkok landed a half hour before ours) and heading for the hotel, we went out for food. We went to one of Hong Kong’s many cooked food markets. Sadly, it was kind of underwhelming.

It reminded me of the Singapore covered food markets, but a less awesome. We ended up at a BBQ meat stand and after a lot of miming got some goose. Or maybe it was duck. We are still not sure. English was not very rampant in this place, despite being pretty common in other areas.

My mom…my poor mom. She braved some sort of Hainanese chicken rice. It was cold. It was salty. It was bloody.

But, in a very brave food front, she ate it. She has gotten really amazing about trying different kinds of food, especially since visiting us in Japan. I am so proud of her.

End of day 1 ended with a tour of Langham Place shopping center and a stop in at a pretty great little candy shop … with one of the bitchiest clerks I have had the displeasure of dealing with. Guess all the sugar goes on the treats.

Day two was a bit better…

Hong Kong update to come soon.